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How to choose a serum for your skin concern: a practical guide

Serums may be the most confusing category in cosmetics. There are dozens on the shelf, complex ingredient lists and varying prices. How do you choose the one that will really help?

The simple answer: identify the concern first, then look for the ingredient.

Concern: dry, dehydrated skin

Dehydrated skin lacks water, not oil. Even oily skin can suffer from dehydration.

Look for: hyaluronic acid, PDRN, glycerin and panthenol.

Recommended products:

  • COSRX 5 PDRN Collagen Intense Vitalizing Serum — PDRN and hyaluronic acid combined for deep hydration
  • ANUA PDRN 100 Hyaluronic Acid Booster Toner — works as both a toner and a serum

Concern: first wrinkles and lack of firmness

Collagen production slows after 25. Peptides, retinol and PDRN are your best allies.

Look for: peptides, PDRN, retinoids and collagen.

Recommended products:

  • ANUA Peach 70 Niacin Serum — gently refines texture and firms skin
  • Medicube Triple Collagen Serum 4.0 — a concentrated collagen serum
  • Medicube Deep Vita A Retinol Serum — retinol for beginners in a tolerable formula

Concern: pigmentation and dark spots

Uneven skin tone is one of the most common concerns. Key ingredients: niacinamide, vitamin C, azelaic acid and kojic acid.

Recommended products:

  • Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum Rice + Arbutin — gentle brightening with rice extract
  • Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ Bio Lifting Essence — an NAD+ complex for even-looking skin tone
  • ANUA Niacinamide 10% + Tranexamic Acid 4% Serum — targeted dark-spot reduction

Concern: enlarged pores and oiliness

Oily skin is often also dehydrated, a paradox addressed by the right ingredients: niacinamide, salicylic acid and zinc.

Recommended products:

  • NINE LESS Molecule-Clear Salicylic Acid Serum — BHA clears pores
  • Celimax The Vita A Retinol Shot Tightening Serum — retinol minimises pores
  • Celimax Retinal Shot Tightening Booster — retinal, stronger than retinol, for reducing pores

Concern: redness, sensitivity and irritation

Sensitive skin needs soothing ingredients: Centella asiatica, heartleaf (Houttuynia cordata), panthenol and aloe.

Recommended products:

  • COSRX 5 PDRN B5 Vital Soothing Toner — panthenol and PDRN for a soothing effect
  • Celimax Noni Ampoule Calming + Radiance — a dual effect: soothing and brightening

How to layer serums correctly

If you use several serums:

  1. Start with the thinnest texture, a water-like toner or booster
  2. Then apply serums from thinnest to thickest
  3. Finish with a moisturiser to lock everything in

The golden rule: one effective serum is better than five average ones. Start with one, observe your skin for 4–6 weeks, then add another.

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